Around the Erhai Lake, China (Part 2)

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Day 3, The Vodka

I woke up by 8:00 in the morning to say goodbye to the Chinese family. They invited me for breakfast and Huiqing cooked a cake for me with warm milk. She has one of those genuine kind personalities, in my opinion it’s the best trait a hostess can have. After breakfast the Chinese family was ready to leave, saying they liked me very much. We all hugged, said our goodbyes and they were on their way.

By 9:00 am I was ready to continue my journey as well. I was saying goodbye to Huiqing and knew she would be successful here. She got this hostel about five months ago and made a contract for ten years. She said it is her dream to have a place like this. I am glad she got what she wanted because it shows; this is a wonderful guest house. To my surprise she also said that I am the first foreigner to stay here. I understand that it’s not the easiest place to find but I was still surprised. We hugged, said our goodbyes and I continued on. As I was leaving, I thought of buying a gift and coming back to see her again. Possibly after this walk, probably on the way back.

I did not eat much for breakfast other than the cake with milk. Still having a light diarrhea, but it was steadily getting better. After starting the walk, I just kept going for the rest of the day. Made few stops to enjoy the scenery and take photographs but just kept pushing on. Due to my preexisting knee injury, on occasion I get pains and by the evening my knee was hurting. There was nowhere to stop for lunch so I just ate few rice crackers with water as I was walking.

Random photos around the lake

By the time I was getting closer to a town that I planned to visit, it was almost sunset. The last hour before I got to town, I was exhausted. I was pushing myself through the pain in my knee and feet. By now I was hungry, but not as hungry as I should have been. I remembered that Huiqing said there is a hostel in this town, so I kept on walking.

Two women stopped their car to take a photo with me heh.

As I was entering the town I saw many men and women in one place, eating. Simple food and it was given out on plates to people in line. I went inside and everyone just looked at me, it’s like time stood still for a second. Then I smiled, and time continued. I asked the women handing out food for a price. They said something but then a man pulled me to a table and sat me down with six other men.

Food was just put on the table in big dishes, buffet style. I had a plate and chopsticks on my table and I ate with them. They poured me vodka and we just ate and drank. There was no need for words. They were workers who are building this area and also tired. Later on my journey I found out that I was not allowed to be there, but they let me eat and stay with them anyway. The food was provided by the government for the people who worked here. At the end of the meal I asked how much, they said that I owe them nothing. I thanked them and moved on drunk, I needed it. I was close to my limit with energy and it helped the pain.

Sunset

It was almost dark and I did not find the hostel. I went out of town up a hill, found a nice spot and pitched my tent. The view outside was breathtaking: sunset, lake, islands and small town in the distance below. I was exhausted and as soon as I got my sleeping bag out, I passed out. Few hours later I woke up, still drunk and extremely thirsty. I thought I had some water with me but I was wrong. So I got out, went up the hill and went in to town.

Bought two large bottles of water and came back. The downhill trail to my tent was tough, it was dark and my small flash light was not very helpful. At some point as I was walking down, my right leg just fell. Good thing I am flexible because my right leg with the rest of my body was in a hole, while my left leg was still on the trail and almost touching my head. It was an interesting experience to just fall. But I got out of the hole and got back inside the tent. I was not very sleepy so I played and completed the game on my phone called Destinia. Of course it crashed after I beat the last boss and got the best items in game. It worked fine all other times except this time, killed my replay idea on harder difficulty.

The view outside my tent.

Found a small unused farm field and set up my tent there.

Day 4, The Factory

I woke up at sunrise and it took me an hour to pack up my tent and gear. Got few minor cuts from last nights fall but everything else seemed fine. Afterwards I went in to town to have my breakfast, get water and buy some snacks for the road. I could still not have a large breakfast, my stomach making sounds and discouraged me to buy more food for later. At some point before leaving, I found a quiet spot and tended to my new made blisters: drained them, disinfected, medicated and patched up. As I was passing the very edge of town, I saw the hostel. Ha! I laughed out loud and thought about staying a night here but moved on. The town was beautiful and deserved to be explored, but the road called.

It was nonstop walking after that. The scenery amazing, but the previous 3 days have acclimatized me to the view. For lunch I found a man on the side of the road selling small sticks of fish and half a potato for a ridiculous price. I was hungry and it was something to eat, not much but kept the hunger at bay. As I was getting closer to my destination, a town called WaSe, I met few kids in the middle of nowhere by the only patch of sand that I’ve seen up to this point. It was on the side of the road and maybe 12 feet long and 6 feet wide. We had a fun time making faces at each other and taking photos.

Fun kids I met on the way. Love their poses!

Imagine a barren road with nothing insight. And then this. Not sure if they are getting married or just posing for random photos.

After I left the kids, I had a young boy run after me and show me a skinned, still bleeding rat on a stick. He kept telling me he wanted a few Yuan (Chinese currency) for it, that it was delicious. I seriously considered it, but cooking it would be difficult and take too much time. The problem with rats is not that they are disgusting but the method that was used to catch them. I know I’ve had a rat in China at least several times. Rat meat is popular in China and Vietnam, although they say its beef or pork, in more remote villages it might be a rat. But as I was saying earlier, it’s the method to catch the rat that matters. If a trap was used to catch the rat, it’s relatively safe to eat. However, if poison was used to catch rats and then served, that can be harmful. Unfortunately, it’s impossible for me to tell the difference.

“Got milk?” Maybe I was just hungry.

A boy offered me this rat to eat. I was considering it but it would be too much work to cook.

As evening was getting closer I arrived in a bigger town called WaSe. It was my goal but I did not find a place to stay that I liked. I saw a shop where I can eat but the owner lady ignored me no matter how many times I asked her to come over, so I moved on. I could have paid a bit more and find a hotel for the night, but the sun was not yet setting, the day was not yet over. After I left WaSe it was around 6:00 pm. The sun was setting down and I was pushing my physical limit. I could barely walk but I was making good progress to the next town. At some point as I walked over a hill I saw a standing truck in front of me. The driver was walking back to the truck after taking a pee break on the side of the road. He sees me, takes a good look and waves if I want a ride. I smile, nod yes, and hop on.

This is what damp socks does to your feet. Keep your feet dry!

Love this photo. This is XiaoPutuo Island in Erhai Lake.

It is a large construction truck that carried stones and sand in it. He does not speak English, but I understood when he asked where I wanted to go. I had no idea, so he keeps driving. Sunset during the drive was probably one of the best I’ve seen in China. After about half an hour, we pass a sign that shows a name of a bigger city ahead. He looked at me and I nod, pointing at the sign ahead of us.

After a bit more driving we arrive at a big factory and are going inside. I stayed quiet as we passed the security check to get in. I know I would not be able to see this any other way; the experience at the factory was unique, to say the least. He probably broke a rule or two bringing me in but he had to park his work truck and change to his minivan. Only when I got out of the truck to walk, did I realize how tired I was. He was not walking fast but I could not walk past very slow. I had no energy and pain in my legs was awful, but I made it.

While driving on the way to the city he made a short stop to get a milk drink for himself and me. I thanked him and gladly accepted it. In his van I saw a picture of Panchen Lama, (the highest ranking Lama after Dalai Lama in Tibetan Buddhism) and knew I was in good hands. He asked if I visited a town called Shangri-La, I said yes. As I understood, he goes there to prey. Although he did not speak a word of English and I spoke almost no Chinese, the essential meaning behind the words was understood.

I did not even remember the name of the city but asked him to drop me off at any hotel. He drops me off next to two big hotels. I thank him and ask how much. I was on a budget but I would give him as needed for his help. He tells me that there is no cost and refused to accept my money. Before leaving he took a Tibetan prayer scarf, gently placed it around my neck and said a few prayers. I shook his hand, thanked him and moved on.

As I looked around, I saw nothing that can help me, just buildings. Might as well walk inside the hotel and see the prices. The woman at reception spoke no English but I saw the prices, it’s roughly $100 per night. I smiled and slowly walked out. Still at a loss at what to do next because my journey ended so abruptly. I had no purpose, no goal and no plan where to go next. So I decided to see how friendly the receptionist is. Of course I looked awful. All in dirt, tired and walking like I should be in crutches. But I am a foreigner and that is my biggest advantage.

I walk inside again and ask her if there is internet available for use. This way I can find a hostel and a way to get there, but she does not understand. I take out my Chinese/English translation notepad and start flipping the pages, but I know it has nothing that I need. It gets me a few more seconds to figure out of something else to ask. As I flip through the pages I see “Train Station”, thinking that I don’t need to spend the night in this city and instead go to a city called Kunming somewhere further. I thought that the train only passed through the town called LiJiang further ahead but to my surprise she smiled and told me the train station is just few blocks away.

Now equipped with a purpose, my spirit was renewed. For on the road a destination is all I need. Not what’s there, but a road to follow. I thanked her and slowly started walking toward the train station. Along the way looking for something to eat and a gift for Huiqing.

Thank you,
Aleksey

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